Border Crossings

I woke up in Argentina, had to ride across the country of Paraguay (stopping in Caagenzhu to pick up my luggage), and wind up back in Bolivia by the end of the day.

What seemed like a insane agenda, turned into an interesting people-watching exercise. You learn a whole lot about a country when you take multiple buses to ride from one end of it another.

Here's what I've got:

There are two main types of buses in Paraguay. The first are fancy schmancy Coach-style buses for long-distance travel; they recline easily and have built-in footrests, but require you to suffer through a lot of Paraguayan music. The second type are local buses that have harder and stiffer seats, but the positive trade-off is no music. Unlike Bolivia, neither of these buses have assigned seating, so they are subject to overcrowding at times and many people standing in the aisles.

When a bus driver shakes his finger at you, he's not admonishing you like a small child. It's just the Paraguayan equivalent of shaking your head to say "no." As in, "no, this bus will not stop at the airport."

Buses that have different routes may be assigned the same bus number. Also, buses may go off their assigned routes to try to pick up additional fares. Both of these practices are confusing.

There are many ways to say "hello." To a stranger, particularly a young one, a thumbs-up sign will suffice. Between female acquaintainces, one kiss on each cheeks. Between male acquaintances, a handshake. Between males and females, the female decides: if she doesn't lean in for the kiss, it's a handshake all the way.

A wide variety of people will enter the bus, speaking various amalgamations of Spanish and Guarani (the indigenous Paraguayan language). 20-something women wearing all spandex outfits a la Paraguayan pop stars. Blond-hair youth who are possibly part of the Mennonite population or are children of Germans who fled after WWII. Indigenous children, leaving their make-shift homes of tarps and sticks, in search of food and opportunities in larger cities. Older women selling chirpa (in a bagel shape instead of the corn dog shape) up and down the aisles, while salespeople of both sexes may try to sell items like necklaces and combs that one can easily get at a local store (and yet, they seem to make a killing on these items anyway).

The bicentennial for Paraguay was a big deal. Looking out the window, town after town displays proudly the national colors. In some towns, trees are painted white with red and blue ribbon wrapped around.

Caution should be exercised when exiting the bus. Full stops are not guaranteed.